They sure don’t make tools like they used to. Have you noticed that tools from Grandpa’s era seem to have a much longer lifespan than the tools we get at the hardware store now? In fact you may even have a few of grandpa’s tools in your garage. Those tools just lasted longer. Is the metal weaker now? Are the tool handles less robust? Or did Grandpa know something about tool maintenance that we don’t?
Grandpa bought quality to start with
Grandpa didn’t buy the cheapest tool on the rack. He knew that a quality tool was an investment not an expense. So grandpa looked at the tool he was purchasing, checked the keen edge, the weight and strength of the steel, and the quality of the handle before he made a purchase. Money wasn’t as plentiful in grandpa’s day and he wanted to make sure this tool purchase wouldn’t be necessary again.
Once he got that tool home, Grandpa did a few simple tasks to ensure that those tools maintained their sharp blades and smooth handles for a long time.
Grandpa preserved the tool’s handle
Most tools have ash or maple handles. They are strong but generally unfinished. In fact, the unfinished handle is a mark of a quality wooden handle. Some manufacturers put a varnish on the handle to disguise inferior wood stock.
Grandpa took a fine grit sand paper or a fine sanding block and brushed that handle in the direction of the grain to remove any splinters that may have roughed up the handle in transit. A smooth handle is easier on the hands.
Then grandpa took a cotton rag and a container of boiled linseed oil and rubbed that handle from top to bottom letting the linseed oil soak in for 30 minutes, before rubbing off the excess. Boiled linseed oil dries quickly on the wood and forms a thin polymer film that allows the wood to breathe while preventing the wood from drying out and cracking. It also preserves the wood from moisture damage and rot.
Grandpa knew that rags soaked in linseed oil needed to be dried on the line before being put away. Boiled linseed oil soaked rags can heat up and spontaneously combust if they aren’t dried thoroughly. Remember that time the neighbor’s garage burnt down? That memory reminded grandpa to always dry his rags, after use.
Grandpa rubbed down the leather tool covers
Leather axe head covers, leather bags, leather boots, saddles, and gear can dry out and stiffen over time. Leather left in an unheated garage or shed is susceptible to cracking if it isn’t preserved and maintained. A little leather balm or leather polish rubbed into the smooth side of the leather will preserve and protect your leather tools and covers from damage from humidity and rot. You can make your own leather balm from the recipe in my new book, The Beeswax Workshop, or you can buy a commercial product like Otter Wax Leather Salve, a secret mixture of beeswax, carnauba wax, and shea butter, with sweet orange essential oil and other undisclosed ingredients. Otter Wax is an American Product made with natural ingredients.
Using a soft chamois rub a small amount of Leather Salve into the smooth side of the leather using circular motions. Wait for 30 minutes for the oil to be absorbed by the leather and then wipe away the excess salve. Buff the leather with a soft cloth until it is shiny and dry.
For dirty leather use a saddle soap to clean the leather, before applying the Leather Salve. Saddle soap is used on dry or just barely damp leather. A thick suds is made on the surface of the saddle soap with a brush, and only the suds is brushed into the leather to loosen dried in dirt and lift grease. The leather is buffed and allowed to dry before the Leather salve or leather conditioner is rubbed into the leather. Saddle soap is used on both the smooth surface and the rough surface of the leather, to clean it.
Grandpa kept his tools sharp and rust free
Tools left out in the elements tend to dull and rust. Grandpa countered the tendency to dull by sharpening the blades of axes, hoes, chisels, and knives before using and before putting them away for a season. Many tools don’t come from the store ready for action. Many tools, like garden hoes, must be sharpened even before the first use.
To sharpen a tool you must begin by deciding how much of a sharpening it requires. If a tool has a chip in the blade surface or if the blade has ground down, begin with a file. A farmer’s file has two grits of fineness, a coarse side and a medium side. For blades that are severely damaged that need an over haul, begin with the coarsest grit on the farmer’s file. Use the file at a slight angle to the blade edge, keeping the general shape of the edge in mind as you file.
Tools are sharpened from coarsest grit to finer grit, with each level of sharpening getting a little finer. In the second level of sharpening any marks left on the tool from the previous level of sharpening are erased by the new sharpening tool. The tools in order from coarsest to finest:
- Farmer’s File (2 grit sizes)
- Sharpening Puck (2 grit sizes)
- Leather Strop with honing compound (finest grit and polish)
At each level the next finest grit is used to remove the marks of the sharpening tool before it. By the time you get to the leather strop, the blade will be highly polished, with a keen edge that will last through a day of work.
When you are sharpening a smaller blade or a blade that still has a good edge, you can just use the leather strop to improve the cutting edge. There’s no need to start at the file every time. The file is for jobs where the edge is damaged or terribly dull.
When sharpening always preserve the angle of the edge. Don’t try to drastically change an edge or you may end up creating a dangerous tool that’s no long able to do the job it was meant to do.
How Grandpa fixed a rusty tool head
If a tool is left out in the weather and becomes rusty, a solution of 1 tablespoon of salt and just enough vinegar to make a thick paste, can be rubbed on the metal in a circular motion, to remove the iron oxide. This should be repeated until all the rust has been removed. Then the tool should be rinsed in clean water. Sharpening of the blade can be done while the tool is damp, but the metal should be thoroughly dried before it is put away.
Grandpa rubbed metal tools with oil at the end of the season
To keep the metal rust free in a cold, damp garage, grandpa rubbed the tool heads with an oily cloth. Mineral oil or machine oils can be used for this task or a beeswax compound. The oil coated the metal and protected it from humidity. Cold weather can cause water vapour to condense on the surface of metal tools, by oiling the metal surfaces are protected from rust and discolouring in storage.
Grandpa stored tools in their place
Grandpa stored his tools in a shed or garage, by hanging them up off the floor, or placing them in a box reserved for tool storage.
By hanging the tools up off the floor, tools are prevented from knocking against each other, or being damaged by other tools. The tools were organized and easy to find. Rodents were kept away from gnawing at the handles or soiling the blades. The tools would be preserved for the next season of use.
Be Like Grandpa
Grab your maintenance kit and this checklist and let’s go over the 5 steps you need to do as soon as you purchase a new homestead tool or to maintain them once you have them. If you’ve got a stash of homestead and garden tools already and have never done any tool maintenance, no problem. Just start where you are at. And your grandchildren will be able to inherit your quality tools when you are done with them.
Here’s the steps necessary to maintain your tools so that your tools can be handed down to your grandchildren:
- Start with quality tools
- Preserve wooden handles with boiled linseed oil
- Clean and preserve leather covers, belts, and bags with leather preserver
- True and sharpen blades and tool heads
- Preserve metal tools with oil before storing for winter
- Store the tool, properly by hanging them on the wall or storing in a tool box.
The Homestead Box
You can get everything you need to maintain your tools like grandpa did in the Homestead Box.
I received my first pioneer homestead box recently so I could check it out and give the company feedback. The homestead box is a curated set of tools and equipment prepared to help you master one homestead skill at a time. Each month a surprise box arrives with the items inside picked with one skill in mind. The skill varies month by month. Everyone receives the Welcome Box first and this is the one I received.
The Welcome Box is aimed at mastering the skills of tool maintenance and sharpening. There are two levels of membership: The Classic Box and the Pioneer Box. In the Pioneer Box that I received, there was a hatchet with a keenly sharp blade, an Opinel whittling knife, and several other things to help a person master the fine art of homestead tool maintenance. I was pleased with the selection. We already have several Opinel knives at Joybilee Farm, so I know that they are good quality and long lasting. In fact, just before Christmas I recommended the Opinel brand of whittling knives to a friend whose daughter wanted to learn to whittle and carve. Opinel knives are made in France with European quality. The Pioneeer Level Welcome Box is valued at $125 to $160 dollars if each item were purchased separately.
I admit that before I received the Homestead Box in the mail, I hadn’t given much thought to tool maintenance. It’s something that Mr. Joybilee tends to, while I focus on other homestead tasks. However, it makes a lot of sense that when you’ve invested thousands of dollars in quality tools like the Hoss Tools Double Wheeled Hoe, a broad fork, forestry axes, splitting mauls, various hoes, rakes, and spades, it’s important to maintain them so that they last for decades and not just one season.
I was pleased to find everything I needed, including an instruction sheet inside the Homestead Box. My Pioneer box included:
- A 2 oz. tin of Otter Wax Leather Salve ($10 value)
- A 2 oz. tin of Otter Wax Saddle Soap ($10 value)
- A Lansky Dual Grit Multipurpose Tool Sharpener (($6 value)
- A Hoss Farmer’s File ($12 value)
- A leather strop ($10 value)
- Marble’s green honing compound ($3 value)
- 3 Field Notes Expedition waterproof notebooks ($13 value)
- A Condor Greenland hatchet ($60 value)
- A No. 8 Opinel knife ($15 value)
- A sanding block ($5 value)
- A quart of boiled linseed oil ($14 value)
*Total estimated value: $158 (Pioneer Welcome Box).
(*All values are estimates based on Amazon.com prices.)
One thing that I love about the Homestead Box people is that they are homesteaders and self sufficiency experts who have been eating food out of their own backyards for a long time. They are the real thing. And their curated choices come from experience and a genuine knowledge of the best practices for self reliance.
Some of the tools in the box aren’t easy to find. And the fact that it’s curated saves a lot of time. I didn’t have to visit the local hardware store only to be told that they are out of stock, or they no longer carry what I’m looking for. (I bet you’ve heard that before, too.) While I checked Amazon to get an idea of the value of this box, I didn’t have to shop on Amazon and worry about where the item I need is shipping from. The Homestead Box not only offers tools with the mastery skills I want, but it offers them to me with the same ethical criterion and knowledge base that I value as a homesteader. And by having the Homestead Box curate the items for me I save money as well as time. That leaves me more money and time to invest in the homestead projects that I love – like herb gardening, making beeswax crafts, and writing.
If you’ve been looking for an easy way to master one homestead skill at a time, while stocking up on the equipment and extras that you need to homestead like our grandparents did before us, the Homestead Box can help you reach your goals of self sufficiency. Find out more here.
Disclaimer: I received a complimentary Pioneer Homestead Box from Sam at The Homestead Box dot com. Sam didn’t ask me to do a review of the product, but I’d be doing you, dear reader, a disservice if I didn’t let you know about this valuable deal. This post expresses my honest opinion of the product.